B-52™

So what's the big deal? Why should I give up my ATC for the B-52?

That's easy. The B-52 is the first and only belay/rappel device that truly does everything well. There are lot's of belay devices out there that may stop a fall well, or rappel smoothly, or feed rope nicely, or autoblock, or be useful as an emergency ascender or whatever, but the B-52 is the only one that does it all. Here’s a list of its high points.

• You can use it with any rope size from 7.8mm twins up to 11mm fatties and be comfortable knowing that it will catch a fall.
   
• You get wicked fast rope feed while belaying with any diameter rope.
   
• Rappelling is a dream. No more jerky feeds at the top followed by hand-shredding speeds at the bottom. It’s smooth and controllable all the way down.
   
• For multi-pitch routes you can use the B-52 in an autoblock mode to bring up your second(s).
   
• It can be used as an emergency ascender It's easy to get your rope into it.
   
• It's lightweight, weighing in at only 60 grams.
   
• It won't drive you nuts by clanking on your rack.

Can you explain this autoblocking thing to me?

Autoblocking is a technique for belaying the second directly off the anchors which will help you lock off and hold the second if they fall or hang on the rope. Setting it up correctly and safely is complicated and must be practiced beforehand, especially if you think you might ever have to lower a second who is hanging on the rope (You will). Keep reading.

Is autoblocking the same as auto-locking?

No way. Autoblocking is the technique explained above and refers only to belaying a second up to you. You never autoblock a leader and you don't autoblock on a slingshot top rope. Auto-locking refers to a device which usually locks up automatically when a climber's weight (leader or second) comes on the rope. We like to use the term "locking-assist" instead of "autolocking". It puts you in a smarter and more attentive belaying mode than "autolocking" does.

 How do I rig the B-52 for bringing up 2 seconds at the same time?

Simply double up on your anchor carabiners, then run the two ropes through the device and the blocking carabiner. As above, your goal is to have the B-52 hanging straight, so be sure to use two similar-sized carabiners. You can use two non-lockers if you cross the gates.

I set up a belay using the autoblock mode and it was really hard to pull the rope through. What's up?

We told you it was tricky. First of all you must realize that the system adds quite a bit of friction on top of the rope weight and any rope drag that may be occurring already. There are a number of situations where it justwon’t work to autoblock. Deal with it. Otherwise, be sure you are using a round stock carabiner like our HMS Mini Screwlock as your blocking ‘biner. A highly forged carabiner has sharp angles which may add enough friction to the system that it becomes nearly impossible to haul the rope through the device.

But I want to be able to eat a rice cake and take pictures while my second is climbing.

Well, it looks like that second won't be me. No way I'm going to let you hold my rope if I don't have your undivided attention.

I had my second on an autoblock so I could get some pictures of him following the traverse pitch of Rosy Crucifiction. He fell and ended up hanging free below the roof, 150' off the ground. I'd read the instructions but still couldn't figure out how to lower him so I had to call for a rescue. What did I do wrong?

Dude! You should have been using a Munter Hitch. Seriously though, Setting up, rigging  and lowering with an autoblock belay is an advanced technique that takes understanding of hauling systems, controlled-release friction hitches and specialty knots. While it's not harder than, say, crevasse rescue or setting a Z-pulley, just as with those techniques you need to anticipate the need to use them, have special equipment immediately accessible and, most importantly, you need to have practiced them in a variety of situations. In 99.9% of all recreational belaying situations, the Munter Hitch is a better way to belay off the anchors.